MEET HUE & TUAT OF TIEN PHONG

March 19, 2023

Even when you live in a place as idyllic as Cua Lo you seek the occasional getaway. I know I do, and I’ve found just the spot. 11-miles from Cua Lo (on a route which includes quaint backroads) is Bai Lu. And while Bai Lu is the name you’ll find on maps, Google searches and road signage, neighboring Tien Phong cove is my ticket to paradise.

Bai Lu is essentially two coves, a rock beach and a temple. The larger cove is in the process of a facelift. Where a simple resort once fronted the beach, a massive building project is currently underway. I’m told the resort will include both hotels and condos and frankly, I don’t doubt it will become an exclusive and highly sought-after, off-the-beaten-path destination. Next to the “Bai Lu” cove is a stretch of rock beach (a visual feast) where locals roam at low tide, plucking away at the wealth of clams, oysters and snails which are sold at the nearby fish market. Next, is the Temple Ne, with its gardens and giant buddha statue nestled on the hillside. And then there’s the second cove: Tien Phong—and that’s where I’ve found my little seaside Shangri-La…

Tien Phong cove is a stretch of golden sand, with gently lapping waves—palm trees and scrub brush. There’s not much by way of brick-and-mortar, only a handful of restaurants, serving up fresh seafood. But there’s one in particular which comes with a few perks and is aptly named: Tien Phong. First, it’s the only of the four restaurants that actually sits on the beach (the others are cliffside). Second, it offers the cove’s only overnight options.

Dao Hue and her husband Tuat own the eatery and the bungalows. Hue was born in Nam Dan (home of Uncle Ho) and moved to Tuat’s hometown of Bai Lu 10-years ago. Three years ago they opened their restaurant in the cove.

The restaurant occupies a spacious redbrick building with multi-paned rustic windows on the backwall. The ocean facing side is open aired, allowing the sounds and scents of the sea to mingle with aromas from the kitchen. There is also a spacious outdoor patio for dining and barbeques as well as a private staircase to the beach.

But it’s the five, quaint, Alpine-roofed bungalows that really make this little gem sparkle. Modestly priced and with all the needed creature comforts (double bed, bathroom/shower, AC), each unit comes with a small balcony over-looking the ocean—romance personified. Catch the sunrise from the comfort of your bed or balcony. Swim in the calm seas of the cove, hike along the golden sand shore, visit the nearby village where the fishing boats unload their catch. And of course, dine from offerings off Hue’s scrumptious fresh-catch menu (there are many selections of fish and crustaceans in salt water tanks for your perusal).

Bai Lu is most certainly a must-see destination during your Cua Lo stay. Be sure to follow the snaky, narrow, coastal lane to the end of the line: Tien Phong cove. Dine and stay overnight with Hue and Tuat. It’s guaranteed to be one of the highlights of your Cua Lo experience.

Contact Tien Phong through Facebook

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